Finally, Effective and Humane Ways to Deal with Bird Pests

Finally, Effective and Humane Ways to Deal with Bird Pests

The three most common bird pests are pigeons, house sparrows, and European starlings. Sometimes woodpeckers, make the list, since they can severely damage wooden structures.

 

Man has long had a love-hate relationship with the ubiquitous and prolific pigeon. The bird originated from domesticated European homing pigeons and will eat almost anything. They nest on ledges and other man-made structures and will create quite a mess in bird droppings.

 

Another pest bird is the sparrow. Commonly found in urban areas, these small, quick, clever birds are highly adaptable, often gathering in huge flocks to force other birds out of their territories. Sparrows prefer nesting in small, enclosed places like house shutters and soffits, drainage piping, rafters and corrugated metal siding. They average about 20 offspring annually, so their numbers quickly grow to intolerable infestations.

 

Last of the three most popular bird pests is the starling. This dark muscular bird will typically gather in huge flocks and, like the sparrow, will drive out other native birds. Homeowners can expect to find starlings in bathrooms and dryer vents, where their dense nests block air flow. Another problem is their sprayed feces, which can eventually corrode stone, metal and masonry due to the uric acid in these droppings.

 

The droppings of most bird pests can freeze up and damage machinery. Worse yet, the bacteria, fungal agents and ectoparasites in droppings and nesting materials have been known to cause serious diseases, including histoplasmosis, encephalitis, salmonella, meningitis, and toxoplasmosis.

 

Bird pests can be a problem. And there are all sorts of ways to deter bird pests without resorting to toxic chemicals or bird poisons (avicides). Besides, the use of avicides is usually pretty restrictive, since they kill a lot more than bird pests.

 

Luckily, innovative bird control firms have tapped into science and bird psychology to come up with a number of humane and highly effective ways to deter bird pests.

 

Topping the list as the most economical are the family of pest bird deterrents known as bird scare products. Reflective Foil/Flash Tape and Balloons fall into this category.Flash tape is a highly visible banner that waves and crinkle in the breeze to intimidate bird pests. They are inexpensive and attach easily to boat masts, poles, patios and trees. Akin to flash tape, the Bird Scare Balloon, is just as effective. Balloons often have big predator eyes to frighten bird pests. Bird scare products like these are effective as long as they are changed often, since birds will get used to them.

 

Next up is the simple but effective Bird Spider. This pest bird deterrent is ideal for use on parking-lot lights, level signs, streetlights, rooftops, and AC units. They’re basically bird scare products with thin, bouncing stainless steel arms that whip about in the breeze. Spiders come in various sizes–typically 2′, 4′ and 8′ diameters to cover large areas and deter various bird types. They’re easy to install and are effective against pigeons, seagulls, and larger birds. The best spiders have a U.V.-protected polycarbonate base.

 

Perhaps the most popular and widely known pest bird deterrent is the Bird Spike. These are highly effective in keeping bird pests off roofs, window ledges, I-beams parapet walls, awnings, canopies, signs and gutters. The spike strips come with rigid U.V.-resistant unbreakable polycarbonate spikes or tough, durable stainless steel spikes. While the spikes may look dangerous, they’re harmless to birds, installers and maintenance crews. Most bird spikes come in 3″, 5″ and 8″ widths and better spikes have a non-reflective metal finish, which makes them almost invisible from ground level. Spikes have proven so effective that some have been recommended by architects, contractors and government agencies.

 

Praised for its utter simplicity is the Bird Slope. This clever device deters bird pests by not allowing them to get a landing foothold. Birds just can’t get a grip on the angled, slippery PVC panels. Bird slopes are quite effective against all types of birds, including swallows, starlings, pigeons, and seagulls. They’re perfectly suited for ledges, eaves, beams and other 90-degree areas. Easily installed on virtually any surface using glue or screws, bird slopes now come in several colors, so they’ll blend in with a building’s aesthetics. To ensure the panels you order last in harsh weather, opt for U.V. protected PVC panels.

 

Another highly effective way to deter bird pests is Bird Gel. Simply put,birds hate to land on this sticky, tacky chemical goo. Once they get their feet into it, they shake a leg and flee, rarely to return. Gels are easy to apply with a caulking gun and the chemical is harmless to people and birds. Gels work quite well on pipes, conduit, ledges, I-beams, and parapet walls. The best gels are colorless and effective in hot or cold climates. One application lasts up to six months outdoors.

 

Nothing like a physical barrier to keep bird pests out. That’s the idea behind Bird Netting. The netting comes in 3/4″, 1-1/8″ and 2″ mesh sizes to deter a wide range of birds and bird sizes. The prefect solution for fruit trees, crops, and vineyards, bird netting is also available in heavy-duty construction to keep bird pests clear of air hangars, garages, factories, warehouses, and large canopies. Some of the best bird netting is flame resistant and rot and waterproof. If you plan to net areas around electrical equipment or transmitters, opt for non-conductive netting.

 

Next up is the persuader of pest bird deterrents–the Electric Track.Birds who try to land on these tracks get a harmless jolt of electricity that says, “not here, mister bird.” The tracks are easily installed on flat or curved surfaces. The best are designed with a flow-thru feature that keeps water from backing up around them.

Finally, we come to a safe chemical pest bird deterrent–Misters and Foggers. These systems spray a super fine mist of methyl anthranilate into the air, which birds can’t stand. The chemical used is a grape extract that occurs naturally in concord grapes and is harmless to birds and humans. Misting systems are ideal for use in large areas. The  systems vary from simple to advanced with some having adjustable nozzles and timers to deter various bird types.

 

 

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I live in the California, bay area, near San Francisco (more specifically Palo Alto). Which contractor is the most trustworthy / or most experienced in the Bay Area?

We have an Eichler flat roof and we have decided we want to get foam instead of tar and gravel, bur, or rolled roofing because we want to conserve energy (and save money on our electrical bills). We read a lot of articles on Eichler network, and they have some preferred sponsors. However, we were hoping to get an answer from someone in the community who was happy with their contractor.

We are also considering our options with solar power for homes, but we don't know much about this yet, or even what it would cost. If there's a local contractor that can do both foam and solar it may be better for us if we decide to get solar power in the future.

So.. in summary: which Foam Contractor would you recommend, and are there any that can also do solar power roof installations?
About Author

Alex A. Kecskes -
About the Author:

Alex Kecskes is a freelance writer focusing on humane and effective bird control. To learn more about the products mentioned please visit Pigeon Control http://www.pigeoncontrol.com




Related Finally, Effective and Humane Ways to Deal with Bird Pests:
November 1st, 2010 | by roofing contractor |

No Responses to “Finally, Effective and Humane Ways to Deal with Bird Pests”

  1. By Trey on Nov 1, 2010

    It depends entirely on how strong the addition was made. If the roof is just 2×4 studs instead of 2×6 or greater, you have a good chance of problems. And if the waterproofing of the flat surface may break if you try to use it to walk on a lot in all kinds of weather and poke through with chair legs, etc.
    The usual solution if the strength is there is to build the "patio" almost like you were making a deck near the ground: a strong sill atfached to the house and pads to rest on the roof and spread the force. Then the waterproofing of the addition stays intact and the deck can be level even if the roof has some slope for drainage.
    If the floor of the house is very close to the level of roof, then there isn't really space to do that above. I would suggest getting someone to design it or ask for estimates based on a design being described to you and see how much trouble they think it will be.

  2. By thegurlupstairs on Nov 1, 2010

    Make sure it's in writing as to how they'll charge if water damaged sheeting is found, ie, time and materials, or will you supply the material and they repair. They won't know if there is damage until the roof is exposed.

    Absolutely ask for references.
    Check the BBB.
    Don't hesitate to get more than one estimate.
    Find out what kind of roofing material they plan to install…is it good quality or some cheapy stuff? That info should be included in the contract and can be verified at your local lumber yard.

    How will the roof be loaded? Is a truck with a boom bringing it in? If so, how will the contractor ensure that your yard won't be hammered.

    Who will be responsible for getting rid of the debris? Easier for them to do it…just get it in writing!

    Ask that it be in writing that they "sweep" the yard (with a magnet) to get rid of any nails that fall to the ground. Even if they tarp the area, nails bounce :)

    As far as meeting with the foreman, it might not be a bad idea. Good to know beforehand if you'll be able to communicate with him.

    Best to you!

  3. By Blogger on Nov 1, 2010

    Looking around, comparing prices, I can say this is the one I went with. Very proud company.

  4. By Wordpress on Nov 1, 2010

    Wonderful service! I am pleased with my choice!

  5. By WPBlog Shop on Nov 1, 2010

    New Roof in Baltimore
    Shingle Roofs in Baltimore
    Metal Roofs in Baltimore
    Flat Roofs in Baltimore
    Roofing Contractor in Baltimore
    Commercial Roofing in Baltimore
    Residential Roofing in Baltimore
    Replacement Windows in Baltimore
    Door Replacements in Baltimore
    Siding in Baltimore
    Decks in Baltimore

  6. By Renoir04 on Nov 2, 2010

    I would recommend to do the following:
    1) Make sure they are a licensed contractor, who will be getting the building permit for you.
    2) Ask the contractor if he will be overseeing the work.
    You don't want one of those guys that you only see once, hire a bunch of unkilled labor to do all theactual work, and are never around to make sure the work is being done right.
    3) Get a few more estimates for cost to do the whole job. I prefer getting at least 3. If they refuse to provide a free estimate for the whole job, then don't even consider them.
    4) Whatever you do, do not give the contractor a huge check up front. There are a ton of horror stories out there, where people have gotten ripped off that way. I suggest a stepwise payment based on the progress of work done. The chunk of which isn't paid until the job is passed by the housing inspector.

  7. By arjzv on Nov 2, 2010

    You can do one of two things. Either ask a competitor to come inspect the roof and give you an itemized list of what's wrong with it *just tell them what happened and that you are looking for someone who can show you what's wrong and what needs repaired* or you can contact your insurance company who can set you up with someone who can check it for code. Once you get the documentation showing the lack of work done you can put in writing your complaint and demand it be redone. If they refuse, you have it in writing that you are unhappy with the product and also paperwork showing what damage is done. Take pictures! That way if they DO try to sue you for the money you can have that on your side. They won't get a DIME if you're in the right.

    Do NOT pay until all the above has taken place or they can claim you damaged it etc. you wouldn't have paid if you weren't satisfied etc. and you won't get it fixed by them.

  8. By starlight on Nov 2, 2010

    Definitely a rubber roof requires a great deal let maintenance and will last 15 to 20 years. This will be a true water proof roof system. Paper and tar is old method and will last 7 to 10 years before needing replaced. UV rays effect both but tar faster. Long term Rubber. Short term is moving in 5 years paper and tar.

  9. By bellshouse1 on Nov 2, 2010

    You need to check with your local Registrar of Contractors to see if there are any open or previous infraction by the builder. You will also be able to see how long the builder have been in business for (the longer the better). When comparing estimates, you need to make sure you are comparing apples to apples. A $20k spread is huge for a small project so somehow, one of the bids are missing services, whether it is demolition, hauling fees, materials to match existing, etc. If you're putting concrete tiles on the new gable roof, does it happen over a large expanse of windows/sliding door? Any of those builders include additional support on the header and foundation due to the increased load?
    Just compare the differences in terms of included scope of work from each builder. By doing so, it may give you a better understanding of the price discrepancies.

  10. By Lisa Lai on Nov 2, 2010

    If you are doing the repair work, repair only what needs to be done for the leak to keep the cost down however if you are paying a person to do it than consider.

    When it is time to replace the entire roof or lay another layer of shingle over the existing ones, do the whole roof. It will be cheaper in man hours total to do the whole thing than in two pieces. Two piece work requires careful edging where the two parts meet so as not to rip the old shingle or cause more leaks. Thus more man hours in labor cost.

    If it is a total cost issue, you decide what you can afford to do now vs. later. But yes you can repair a roof in parts or section or just repair damage.

  11. By Free Blog on Nov 3, 2010

    GREAT JOB! 5 STARS!

  12. By mealking on Nov 4, 2010

    A metal roof is not a good idea. Ponding water will leak through the seams even if they are soldered because expansion and contraction will open up the seams. Ponding water will also cause the steel roof to rust prematurely.

    A better option is a rubber membrane roof. Warranties as long as 40 years are available. A reputable roofing contractor will make quick work of the roof job and be around for any problems that may develop … in other words, they will be around to take care of any warranty problems.

    Good luck with your roofing project.

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