Horse Stables Planning Guide

Horse Stables Planning Guide

Do I need Planning Permission ?

Prior to your investing in Stables, check to see whether or not you need planning permission.  Normally you do, even for a Field Shelter unless it is mobile.

However, should you wish to put stables in your garden or replace existing stables these circumstances may be an exception.  If you want to put your stables in your garden, the general rules are that the buildings must be  5m away from the house and 1.0m from the boundary of your garden.  The stables should be for private and not commercial use. For full and detailed confirmation go to www.planningportal.gov.uk a government information site that will either answer all your questions or point you in the right direction.

Should you have stables already situated on your property and wish to replace them like for like with a newer building, you must take good location photographs before pulling down your old stables.  This ensures that you have photographic evidence that stables once stood on the plot you wish to erect your replacement stables.

Nevertheless, you must contact your local planning office before you proceed.  Inform them of the stable construction and that the layout will blend in with the surrounding area, your land will not deteriorate or decline with horses being kept on it and that your muckheap will be well hidden and not an environmental risk.

Inform your neighbours, they may worry about the noise and smell .  Assure them that this will not be a problem to them.  Investigate how you are going to dispose of your manure.  You may have a local farmer who will remove it when required or alternatively invest in an on-site skip.  Burning your manure, especially woodshaving etc smells awful, is environmentally poor and may even be illegal, so an alternative disposal needs to be carefully thought out.

A Solid Base

 

Unless you are converting existing buildings, pre-fabricated horse stables are the popular choice. If you can afford brick built stables, you may find it unlikely to get planning permission.  Unfortunately too many people quickly converted them to annexes or granny flats.  Your local council may not look too kindly on such applications.

Prime Stables Ltd will help you work out what you need and will be able to suggest certain designs and layouts. You will have to get your base prepared yourself or bring in a recommended local groundwork’s contractor so that you are ready for the delivery and installation of your stables.  We recommend that you have your base ready one-week before delivery of your stables to allow for the curing of concrete base and brickwork plinth.

We recommend that you lay 150mm of compacted hardcore and then 100mm inches of an equine concrete mix.  You can obtain this from any local ready-mix concrete supplier.  You will then need to lay a course of semi-engineering bricks. Upon receipt of order we will then send to you a brickwork plan for your stables to be sited onto.

Your base might cost as much as your stables – do not try to cut costs on your base.  If the base is wrong and uneven the stables will not fit.  It must be level with the correct fall for drainage.  Ask professionals for advice.

 

Your Next Step..

Most people have a budget to work with.  Should you only be able to afford a couple of stables, but in the future would like to add on extra stables, hay barns etc, would you be able to fund a larger base?

The site where your stables are to be situated must have space for your installation team to manoeuver.  Remember that your installation team needs room to work and if your stables are going next to an existing building, you should allow at least 600mm between the two.

There are many stable manufacturing companies.  Request brochures from at least three companies and ask if they have customers in your area that you can visit, so that you can view their stables and if they are prepared to talk to you and give an honest opinion.

Stable Checks

 

  1. Some companies provide a design service.  Prime Stables Ltd will supply you with this service, for a minimal fee of £95.00 + vat, which is refundable against your order.  All we ask is that you send a sketch/layout of your stabling needs.  Six copies of an ordnance survey map will be required and can be obtained from www.planningapplicationmaps.co.uk Then simply position where the stables will be sited, marking which way is north and if you know where any land drains, pipes etc are situated.  Once this information is received we will have a professional architectural drawing drawn up for you.
  1. How long will your delivery date be after you have placed your order?  Most companies quote four to six weeks, but they may be dependent on weather conditions.

 

  1. You will probably have to pay a deposit when you place your order.  This is normally 50% of the total price.
  1. Make sure you are aware of exactly what is included in your quotations.  Check amounts for VAT, delivery charges and supply & erection.  What fittings come as standard with your stable order etc.

 

-      Some firms have arrangements for finance, check out the best deals.

  1. Check with your local planning office in case there are rules about materials make and colour of roofing.

 

  1. Kickboards need to be strong, they need to withstand horses kicking, leaning and rubbing against them.  Full lining is worth the extra expense – it is more cost effective to have full height kickboards than to have structural repairs at the end of the day.  Check if your stable manufacturers supply chew strips as standard.
  1. Access – your supplier must have easy access.  They are probably driving 7.5 tonne, fully loaded lorries with 18ft beds.  If the access area is poached they will sink up to their axles immediately.    The driver will also need a clear entrance; a lorry cannot turn like a car and needs to swing wider through gateways.

 

  1. Ventilation is a high priority in stabling.  Ensure that there is adequate airflow at the ridges of your stable for your horse to stay healthy.
  1. Standard loose boxes are 3.1m x 3.6m for a pony and 3.6m x 3.6m for a horse.   Do not scrimp on the size of stable.  Will your horse have to be box-bound or isolated due to infection? The bigger the stable the better surrounding for your horse.  You may use more bedding, but in the long term your horse will be cleaner to muck out if he has more room.

 

    • Consider the size of your Tack Room and Hay Barn. How many horses do you have and do you have enough room to cater for housing the tack and rugs etc, as well as a bulk load of feed and hay?

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Jstrange -
About the Author:

Prime Stables – Hand Crafted Equestrain Buildings, Horse Stables and American Barns

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Related Horse Stables Planning Guide:
September 4th, 2010 | by roofing contractor |

No Responses to “Horse Stables Planning Guide”

  1. By PAMMiiE on Sep 4, 2010

    I'm not sure I understand… you've been twice? The first time was good, the second time wasn't? Or have you been to two different places, and one was good and one wasn't?

    I'll assume two different places. If you don't like the new place, find another. It doesn't sound like you're happy there. Of course, it doesn't sound like you have reasonable expectations, either, but that's another story.

    Of course you have to have a helmet. If you didn't bring one, of course they're going to tell you where to find one and you'llhave to get it – that's your responsibility.

    Sometimes things will run late and you will have to wait. Sometimes you don't get to ride the horse you want. Sometimes a lesson horse will need a lesson from the instructor to remind how he's to behave; you really don't want to be on him them.

    I don't know why you think they planned all that (you sound paranoid to me), but it sounds to me like they were having a bad day. Obviously schedules got mixed up, and you had to wait (wow… 10 whole minutes! Be still my heart!).

    What's wrong with another person riding at the same time as you? You don't own the place and there's plenty of room. If the horse wasn't doing the right things… it's probably because you weren't telling him to, and you have to go back to basics because either you've forgotten them or didn't learn them correctly at the first place. The first place's horses may have been more pushbutton, or their lessons may have all been the same so the horse knew what to do when. Who knows? But these people think you need extra work, and they're probably right.

    It may or may not be costly, depending on your area. It sounds pretty cheap to me. A private lesson, horse and equipment and helmet included, at a provided facility, for £20 is really very reasonable. I would, however, expect them to give you your full half hour if (and only if) it's their fault you started late. If you came late, or didn't come equipped as expected, or were expected to tack up the horse and didn't, or anything else that's your responsibility, then NO you don't get extra time.

    I suspect they're better at their jobs than the first place was, and that they're going to have to unteach you some bad habits. And I suspect your attitude is going to make that more difficult all around.

    So. Go back to the basics, lose the attitude, and you might just learn something. If you can't do that, you're wasting your money… but they're not wasting it for you.

  2. By Isaacs Meowmy on Sep 4, 2010

    17 inches is the normal saddle size… it's kinda the all purpose size… most lesson barns have 17 inch saddles for everyone to use. If you're thinner, you can use the smaller saddles… and they make really small ones for kids. The inches measurement is how long the saddle is from front to back… it should fit YOU!… that part doesn't depend on the horse. The underpart of the saddle (the padded part that sits on the horse) should fit the horse… they make the padding closer together or farther apart (with a gap in the center) depending on the horses back and the size of the withers (height and width). That's why they make different size trees… you'll hear about wide trees or narrow trees and they make adjustable trees in saddles and that's the part that should fit your horse. The length of the saddle (the inches measurement) is about you. The tree is about the horse. The average size for a fully grown person is a 17 inch saddle. If you're a larger size person you might be more comfortable with a bigger saddle… I'm used to the 17 inch saddle, so I'm comfortable riding it, but it is a bit small for me (I'm only slightly taller than 5 foot and I wear a size 14 jeans)… I hope that gives you some perspective. 13 inches would be a saddle for a child… it would be WAY too small for a normal adult.

    I'm not sure about stirrup leathers (I've never bought any) but I'm sure it's pretty easy to find out… just search for some on State Line Tack and look at the prices.

    Brushes… all of the people at my barn who own their own horses also have their own brushes. I'm sure you can use the community brushes (ours are more like lesson brushes… for the kids taking lessons, so maybe your community brushes are different), but you can control how clean you keep your brushes and what condition they stay in. I've never really had a problem using the lesson brushes… my barn actually just got some new ones and they're really nice… but if the brushes at your barn are poor quality or dirty or anything, you might want your own. It's really your choice. I don't think brushes are really very expensive, but you might choose to wait to purchase some since you're just buying a horse (so you might not have enough money to spend on your brushes right now). You certainly need to have access to brushes because it's important to groom your horse, but if you can use the community ones, there's no hurry to buy your own.

    I'm really not sure about breeches… I know mine were a 30something, so (judging from knowing my measurements) I'd have to guess that's the waist size.

    You can go on equine.com and search their listings for tack that people are selling. Ebay also has some people selling tack, but I'm never sure about the quality of stuff that people sell on there… I feel like equine.com is more reliable because it has to be horse people and it's a horse website.

    Where are you in Ohio? I went to school at Miami University (it's near Cincinnati for all you people thinking that Miami is only in Florida)… the big place for people to go around there is called Wind & Withers, but I think it might have closed. I bought most of my show clothes at a place called Macaulays. And I bought my hunt coat at The Tack Trunk. Unfortunately I don't really know where any of those places are (I mean i can't give you directions) because I'm actually from Cleveland. Around here, the best place I've found is called Valley tack and it's in Valley City. There's also a place I've heard a lot about called The Paddock, but I've never been there and I don't know where it is.

    Good luck and have fun spending all your money on your new horsey things!

  3. By Blogger on Sep 4, 2010

    Looking around, comparing prices, I can say this is the one I went with. Very proud company.

  4. By Wordpress on Sep 4, 2010

    Wonderful service! I am pleased with my choice!

  5. By PAMMiiE on Sep 6, 2010

    I can sense how frustrated you are about this. Maybe they were just having one of those days all of us seem to have at some point. I would at least go one more time and see if things improve. If they still don't seem to have their act together, I would find another instructor. If you are paying them for a service, they should give it to you. Criticizing is a part of the learning process if it is done constructively. They should always treat you with courtesy and respect. If they don't and make you feel uncomfortable, hit the road. There are good instructors that will teach you how to ride properly and with courtesy. Good luck

  6. By Julie on Sep 6, 2010

    ok. i only know the answer to the girth question, go for the size you THINK might fit your horse, ir not sure you can always purchase a girth extender if your girth is too small

  7. By Piaffe on Sep 6, 2010

    Try this lot

    http://www.horses-and-horse-information.com/articles/horse-management.shtml
    http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/horse_management
    http://www.naturalhorsemanagement.com/
    http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/e-equine/
    http://www.thenaturalhoof.co.uk/2.html
    http://www.localriding.com/what-causes-horse-sarcoids.html
    http://hubpages.com/hub/Anti-Cribbing-Procedures
    http://www.horsemagazine.com/CLINIC/K/KEANE/Everyday%20Management/Part%201/Part1.html

    Some useful pictures:
    http://www.supergentleranchhorses.com/horsemgmnt.html
    http://www.aktivstall.de/e/products/etxtAktivstall.html

  8. By PAMMiiE on Sep 6, 2010

    Well, this is the toddler section, so don't expect too many answers.

    You have only been there twice. I would give it a couple of more lessons. Maybe they were just having a bad day or trying to cram in some makeup lessons for other people. However, if they continue to treat you this same way, change stables or instructors. If you are paying for instruction, then you should get instruction, not criticism. You should mention that you have had instruction before and that you feel like you are ready for more than just basics. Hopefully, at that point, she will watch you go through your paces to assess exactly what you already know, then work with you from that level.

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  10. By Mummy.2.1 on Sep 6, 2010

    Call the local paper and ask them to do a feature and make a plea for either money or physical donations such as blankets, halters etc. You should apply for charity status which makes people more inclined to donate funds as they can then write it off and you don't have to worry about it as "income" for tax purposes.

  11. By Free Blog on Sep 7, 2010

    GREAT JOB! 5 STARS!

  12. By Piaffe on Sep 7, 2010

    Conformation

    http://showingtips.co.uk/conflegs.html

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