Log Home Restoration: Things You Should Know From My Experience ( I Live In One)

Log Home Restoration: Things You Should Know From My Experience ( I Live In One)

Log home maintenance is a vital part of the overall log home experience. Enjoying the beauty of the rustic setting is very satisfying, but to neglect or postpone regular maintenance could turn rustic into ruin. Too often the homeowner is too busy or maybe just not familiar with what is required to keep a log home protected from the harsh elements. Periodic inspections should be performed on a regular basis and proper action taken when a problem is found. Unlike stick-built homes, logs that are machine milled, hand hewn, flat faced or beams all have one thing in common. Whether kiln dried or air dried, they will expand and contract when temperature and humidity change. Warping and twisting can occur causing joints to pull apart, sealants to fail and caulking to come loose as well as issues with stain adhesion. If not addressed, air and insects can easily enter the home causing not only a nuisance but making the home much less energy efficient. Moreover, water infiltration can cause mold and mildew problems, unsightly staining of the logs and most importantly, wood rot. This can easily be avoided. The following check list can be used as a guide to help you keep your log home in good condition, weather tight and beautiful for years to come.

1. Walk around your log home and actually take notes of problems or potential problems. You may be surprised at the list you compile.

2. If possible, it is a good idea to get up on the roof to check for loose or damaged shingles. Check to see that plumbing vent pipe flashings are tight around the pipe and properly sealed to the shingles. Also, check chimney flashing, rain diverters, gutters and downspouts. Check gutters closely for proper drainage. Clogged and backed up gutters cause fascia boards to rot very quickly and is hard to spot from the ground. These issues apply to all homes.

3. Take the time to examine the logs and siding closely. Look for any mildew growth. Where there is mildew, there is usually a moisture problem. Check to see if there are shrubs or tree limbs that can be trimmed back to allow more sun exposure and air circulation.

4. Check the logs, siding and trim for small holes and or sawdust. This is a sure indication of insect activity. Carpenter ants, wood borers, boring bees and a host of other insects can do thousands of dollars worth of damage in a relatively short period of time. Any holes should be saturated with an insecticide and caulked or plugged depending on the size of the hole. If your home has never had a borate treatment, it is highly recommended when the house is stripped and before a new sealer is applied, borate should be used to preserve the logs from rot and insects. This is not a long or hard process, but does require a knowledgeable applicator and proper drying time.

5. Check corners, log seams, butt joints, window and door trim and other areas such as dryer vents, receptacle covers, HVAC lines and plumbing fixtures for caulking failure. Installed properly, caulking will hold up well. The problem we find is that most of the time backer rod has not been used where needed and the caulking is either over applied or under applied and not “tooled” in the joint or seam properly. When applied incorrectly, even the slightest log movement will cause the caulk to separate. The more the logs separate, the greater the possibility of air, insect and water infiltration. Inspection and caulking of your log home should be a semi-annual project. If preformed on a regular basis, the average home could be kept weather tight in as little as a couple of hours. It will be time and money well spent!

6. Test the log finish. Splash some water onto the logs. Does it bead up and roll off, or does it soak into the wood? If it soaks into the wood, the finish is not doing it’s job. A properly sealed log (or any type of wood) should repel water. If not, it is past time to re-coat. If your home has gotten to this point, it is advisable to call a professional. An inspection and consultation will reveal the condition of your home and determine what is necessary to re-establish a protective coating.

7. What type of stain to apply to your home involves some thought. Depending on what is important to you, your personal preferences and the location of the home will dictate which product will best suit your needs. The best advise is to stay away from the big box store brands. There are a few that in certain circumstances will preform fairly well, but in general, retail products will not hold up on logs.

8. Consult with a professional. We do this everyday. We have seen products and contractors come and go. We have tried many different log home restoration products and found some better than others. We only use products that I know work and use on my own log home. I love my work, but after working on my customer’s log homes, I really don’t want to spend my time off working on mine replacing inferior products. If you have questions, give me a call, I love to help.

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The roof in my bedroom (which measures approximately 14' x 14') is leaking. I've had 5 contractors out to give estimates. I'm getting vastly different opinions on what needs to be done and how much it will cost. Two roofers said it can be repaired at a cost of less than $800. 3 have said that the roof needs to be replaced and have given estimates of $5,000 to $5,800. Now, I don't know anything about roofing, but to me that seems awfully high. It's only 1 room. It currently has a metal roof, and the roof over that room is flat. My sister's house is 3x the size of mine and it cost her less than $6000 to cover her old roof with a new one, and she used top-of-the-line shingles. So how can one room cost 5 grand? I suspect that these guys are trying to screw me over because I don't have a husband. Another roofer is coming on Monday and I want to know how to handle this. Please help!
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September 6th, 2010 | by roofing contractor |

No Responses to “Log Home Restoration: Things You Should Know From My Experience ( I Live In One)”

  1. By Trey on Sep 6, 2010

    It depends entirely on how strong the addition was made. If the roof is just 2×4 studs instead of 2×6 or greater, you have a good chance of problems. And if the waterproofing of the flat surface may break if you try to use it to walk on a lot in all kinds of weather and poke through with chair legs, etc.
    The usual solution if the strength is there is to build the "patio" almost like you were making a deck near the ground: a strong sill atfached to the house and pads to rest on the roof and spread the force. Then the waterproofing of the addition stays intact and the deck can be level even if the roof has some slope for drainage.
    If the floor of the house is very close to the level of roof, then there isn't really space to do that above. I would suggest getting someone to design it or ask for estimates based on a design being described to you and see how much trouble they think it will be.

  2. By thegurlupstairs on Sep 6, 2010

    Make sure it's in writing as to how they'll charge if water damaged sheeting is found, ie, time and materials, or will you supply the material and they repair. They won't know if there is damage until the roof is exposed.

    Absolutely ask for references.
    Check the BBB.
    Don't hesitate to get more than one estimate.
    Find out what kind of roofing material they plan to install…is it good quality or some cheapy stuff? That info should be included in the contract and can be verified at your local lumber yard.

    How will the roof be loaded? Is a truck with a boom bringing it in? If so, how will the contractor ensure that your yard won't be hammered.

    Who will be responsible for getting rid of the debris? Easier for them to do it…just get it in writing!

    Ask that it be in writing that they "sweep" the yard (with a magnet) to get rid of any nails that fall to the ground. Even if they tarp the area, nails bounce :)

    As far as meeting with the foreman, it might not be a bad idea. Good to know beforehand if you'll be able to communicate with him.

    Best to you!

  3. By Wordpress on Sep 6, 2010

    Wonderful service! I am pleased with my choice!

  4. By Blogger on Sep 6, 2010

    Looking around, comparing prices, I can say this is the one I went with. Very proud company.

  5. By Free Blog on Sep 7, 2010

    GREAT JOB! 5 STARS!

  6. By WPBlog Shop on Sep 7, 2010

    New Roof in Baltimore
    Shingle Roofs in Baltimore
    Metal Roofs in Baltimore
    Flat Roofs in Baltimore
    Roofing Contractor in Baltimore
    Commercial Roofing in Baltimore
    Residential Roofing in Baltimore
    Replacement Windows in Baltimore
    Door Replacements in Baltimore
    Siding in Baltimore
    Decks in Baltimore

  7. By starlight on Sep 7, 2010

    Definitely a rubber roof requires a great deal let maintenance and will last 15 to 20 years. This will be a true water proof roof system. Paper and tar is old method and will last 7 to 10 years before needing replaced. UV rays effect both but tar faster. Long term Rubber. Short term is moving in 5 years paper and tar.

  8. By mealking on Sep 9, 2010

    A metal roof is not a good idea. Ponding water will leak through the seams even if they are soldered because expansion and contraction will open up the seams. Ponding water will also cause the steel roof to rust prematurely.

    A better option is a rubber membrane roof. Warranties as long as 40 years are available. A reputable roofing contractor will make quick work of the roof job and be around for any problems that may develop … in other words, they will be around to take care of any warranty problems.

    Good luck with your roofing project.

  9. By arjzv on Sep 9, 2010

    You can do one of two things. Either ask a competitor to come inspect the roof and give you an itemized list of what's wrong with it *just tell them what happened and that you are looking for someone who can show you what's wrong and what needs repaired* or you can contact your insurance company who can set you up with someone who can check it for code. Once you get the documentation showing the lack of work done you can put in writing your complaint and demand it be redone. If they refuse, you have it in writing that you are unhappy with the product and also paperwork showing what damage is done. Take pictures! That way if they DO try to sue you for the money you can have that on your side. They won't get a DIME if you're in the right.

    Do NOT pay until all the above has taken place or they can claim you damaged it etc. you wouldn't have paid if you weren't satisfied etc. and you won't get it fixed by them.

  10. By bellshouse1 on Sep 9, 2010

    You need to check with your local Registrar of Contractors to see if there are any open or previous infraction by the builder. You will also be able to see how long the builder have been in business for (the longer the better). When comparing estimates, you need to make sure you are comparing apples to apples. A $20k spread is huge for a small project so somehow, one of the bids are missing services, whether it is demolition, hauling fees, materials to match existing, etc. If you're putting concrete tiles on the new gable roof, does it happen over a large expanse of windows/sliding door? Any of those builders include additional support on the header and foundation due to the increased load?
    Just compare the differences in terms of included scope of work from each builder. By doing so, it may give you a better understanding of the price discrepancies.

  11. By Renoir04 on Sep 9, 2010

    I would recommend to do the following:
    1) Make sure they are a licensed contractor, who will be getting the building permit for you.
    2) Ask the contractor if he will be overseeing the work.
    You don't want one of those guys that you only see once, hire a bunch of unkilled labor to do all theactual work, and are never around to make sure the work is being done right.
    3) Get a few more estimates for cost to do the whole job. I prefer getting at least 3. If they refuse to provide a free estimate for the whole job, then don't even consider them.
    4) Whatever you do, do not give the contractor a huge check up front. There are a ton of horror stories out there, where people have gotten ripped off that way. I suggest a stepwise payment based on the progress of work done. The chunk of which isn't paid until the job is passed by the housing inspector.

  12. By Lisa Lai on Sep 9, 2010

    If you are doing the repair work, repair only what needs to be done for the leak to keep the cost down however if you are paying a person to do it than consider.

    When it is time to replace the entire roof or lay another layer of shingle over the existing ones, do the whole roof. It will be cheaper in man hours total to do the whole thing than in two pieces. Two piece work requires careful edging where the two parts meet so as not to rip the old shingle or cause more leaks. Thus more man hours in labor cost.

    If it is a total cost issue, you decide what you can afford to do now vs. later. But yes you can repair a roof in parts or section or just repair damage.

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