Top Ten Ways To Deter Pest Birds

Top Ten Ways To Deter Pest Birds

If birds have been dive-bombing your house, boat or building, what they leave behind isn’t pretty or sanitary. If they’ve been nesting near your solar panels or air conditioning units, you no doubt have some expensive repair receipts to show for their years of accumulated “homesteading.” If they’ve left little “appetizers” on your outdoor restaurant tables, you know how much that has affected business. And if you’re a pilot, you really don’t want to compete for runway space with a flock of birds headed straight for your engines.

Pest birds can be a problem. And there are all sorts of ways to deter pest birds. Some not so kind. Some only marginally effective. And some, well, outlawed in most states.

So what to do? Fortunately, there are some pretty smart people who have combined science and bird psychology to solve your problem. And the solutions they have come up with are not only effective but humane and surprisingly affordable. Without further fanfare, here are the top ten ways (products and systems) the experts have devised to deter pest birds:

  1. Reflective Foil/Flash Tape and Balloons. These highly visible banners wave and crinkle in the wind to intimidate pest birds, making them believe that an ominous creature has laid claim to the area and will attack them if they try to land. They are inexpensive and mount easily on boat masts, poles, patios and trees. A cousin to the flash tape, the blow-up balloon, works just as effectively. These usually come with big predator eyes that scare birds. Whether you use balloons or flash tape, remember to change them around every so often so birds don’t get used to them and no longer regard them as a threat.
  1. Bird Spiders. Ideal for parking-lot lights, signs, streetlights, rooftops, AC units and other areas, spiders have thin, flagellating stainless steel arms that move with the breeze. You can get them in various sizes–usually 2′, 4′ and 8′ diameters to cover large areas and deal with various bird types. Spiders are easy to install and have no moving parts to wear out or maintain. They are effective against pigeons, seagulls, and larger birds. Better spiders have a U.V.-protected polycarbonate base.
  1. Bird Spikes. Recommended by architects, contractors and government agencies, these spiked strips have proven highly effective in deterring birds from peaking on roofs, window ledges, I-beams parapet walls, awnings, canopies, signs and gutters. They can be ordered with rigid U.V.-resistant unbreakable polycarbonate spikes or high strength, durable stainless steel spikes. The spikes look intimidating, but they’re harmless to birds, installers and maintenance crews. They typically come in 3″, 5″ and 8″ widths and their non-reflective metal finish makes them practically invisible when installed. One manufacturer offers no-gap spikes that are easily installed on curved surfaces.
  1. Bird Slopes. These ingenious devices deter pest birds by denying them the ability to land. The angled PVC panels are slippery to birds’ feet, so they just flail about trying, but never succeeding, in getting a grip. After a few tries, they give up and move on.  Known as an anti-perching, anti-roosting, pest bird deterrent slopes are quite effective against all types of birds, including swallows, starlings, pigeons, seagulls. Ideal for ledges, eaves, beams and other 90-degree areas where pest birds often nest and roost. You can install the panels on practically any surface using glue or screws. They even come in several colors, so they won’t stand out, but blend in with your building’s overall color scheme. Better panels are made of U.V. protected PVC for lasting sun and weather resistance.
  1. Bird Netting. Pretty simple concept. Deter pest birds with a physical barrier. Netting can usually be ordered in 3/4″, 1-1/8″ and 2″ mesh sizes to deter a wide range of birds and bird sizes. Ideal for fruit trees, crops, and vineyards, you can also get heavy duty netting to keep pest birds out of air hangars, garages, factories, warehouses, eaves, and canopies. The best netting is U.V. stabilized, flame resistant and rot and waterproof. Opt for ISO 1806 protocol mesh tested netting. And choose non-conductive netting in and around any electrical areas.
  1. Bird Gel. Economical and highly effective in keeping pest birds off horizontal surfaces, gels work because birds just can’t stand to land on this stuff when it skins over. It’s really sticky and tacky, and if they try to land, they can’t wait to get off.  It’s easy to apply with a caulking gun and the chemical is non-toxic to people and birds. Ideal for pipes, conduit, ledges, I-beams, and parapet walls, the best gels are invisible when they dry and effective through wide temperature extremes–from 15F to 200F. One application lasts up to six months outdoors.
  1. Electric-Tracks. These devices deter birds with a ZAP! Birds set foot on these tracks and they get a harmless jolt of juice that convinces them to move on. The shock is something akin to the irritating jolt one gets touching a doorknob after walking on the carpet. Tracks are easily installed on flat or curved surfaces. The best have a flow-thru design to prevent water from collecting on rooftops.
  1. Misters. These systems rely on a bird’s aversion to certain natural chemicals.  They release a super fine mist of methyl anthranilate into the air. This chemical is a harmless grape extract that naturally occurs in concord grapes. Misting systems have been especially effective in discouraging pest birds from landing and roosting in large areas. Birds fly through the mist and they won’t come back for a second dose. The systems can be ordered with a wide range of nozzles and timers to deter pigeons, starlings, sparrows, crows, geese and blackbirds.
  1. Sonic Repellers. Like humans, birds fear hearing distress and predator calls. Sonic systems deter birds by exploiting these fears. They emit distress and predator calls of many common birds–one system produces calls for 22 types of birds. The sounds are repeated every few minutes to alert birds that there’s danger in the area. The systems provide a low cost, long-term solution for deterring pigeons, crows, starlings, swallows, gulls, woodpeckers, sparrows, grackles, cormorants and many other birds.
  1. Solar Powered Bird Repellers. These whip around a set of helicopter-like blades to deter seagulls, pigeons, and crows from landing. Ideal for signs, streetlights, balconies, boats, AC units, chimney caps, swim platforms and skylights. Some repellers have adjustable “arms” that cover up to 5 feet in diameter and turn continuously at 30 RPM. Better systems are able to store sunlight energy to keep them turning throughout the night.

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About Author

Alex A. Kecskes -
About the Author:

Alex Kecskes is a freelance writer focusing on effective bird control methods. The products listed in this article can be found at Absolute Bird Control.




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November 21st, 2010 | by roofing contractor |

No Responses to “Top Ten Ways To Deter Pest Birds”

  1. By Trey on Nov 21, 2010

    It depends entirely on how strong the addition was made. If the roof is just 2×4 studs instead of 2×6 or greater, you have a good chance of problems. And if the waterproofing of the flat surface may break if you try to use it to walk on a lot in all kinds of weather and poke through with chair legs, etc.
    The usual solution if the strength is there is to build the "patio" almost like you were making a deck near the ground: a strong sill atfached to the house and pads to rest on the roof and spread the force. Then the waterproofing of the addition stays intact and the deck can be level even if the roof has some slope for drainage.
    If the floor of the house is very close to the level of roof, then there isn't really space to do that above. I would suggest getting someone to design it or ask for estimates based on a design being described to you and see how much trouble they think it will be.

  2. By thegurlupstairs on Nov 21, 2010

    Make sure it's in writing as to how they'll charge if water damaged sheeting is found, ie, time and materials, or will you supply the material and they repair. They won't know if there is damage until the roof is exposed.

    Absolutely ask for references.
    Check the BBB.
    Don't hesitate to get more than one estimate.
    Find out what kind of roofing material they plan to install…is it good quality or some cheapy stuff? That info should be included in the contract and can be verified at your local lumber yard.

    How will the roof be loaded? Is a truck with a boom bringing it in? If so, how will the contractor ensure that your yard won't be hammered.

    Who will be responsible for getting rid of the debris? Easier for them to do it…just get it in writing!

    Ask that it be in writing that they "sweep" the yard (with a magnet) to get rid of any nails that fall to the ground. Even if they tarp the area, nails bounce :)

    As far as meeting with the foreman, it might not be a bad idea. Good to know beforehand if you'll be able to communicate with him.

    Best to you!

  3. By Wordpress on Nov 21, 2010

    Wonderful service! I am pleased with my choice!

  4. By Blogger on Nov 21, 2010

    Looking around, comparing prices, I can say this is the one I went with. Very proud company.

  5. By bellshouse1 on Nov 21, 2010

    You need to check with your local Registrar of Contractors to see if there are any open or previous infraction by the builder. You will also be able to see how long the builder have been in business for (the longer the better). When comparing estimates, you need to make sure you are comparing apples to apples. A $20k spread is huge for a small project so somehow, one of the bids are missing services, whether it is demolition, hauling fees, materials to match existing, etc. If you're putting concrete tiles on the new gable roof, does it happen over a large expanse of windows/sliding door? Any of those builders include additional support on the header and foundation due to the increased load?
    Just compare the differences in terms of included scope of work from each builder. By doing so, it may give you a better understanding of the price discrepancies.

  6. By Lisa Lai on Nov 22, 2010

    If you are doing the repair work, repair only what needs to be done for the leak to keep the cost down however if you are paying a person to do it than consider.

    When it is time to replace the entire roof or lay another layer of shingle over the existing ones, do the whole roof. It will be cheaper in man hours total to do the whole thing than in two pieces. Two piece work requires careful edging where the two parts meet so as not to rip the old shingle or cause more leaks. Thus more man hours in labor cost.

    If it is a total cost issue, you decide what you can afford to do now vs. later. But yes you can repair a roof in parts or section or just repair damage.

  7. By Free Blog on Nov 22, 2010

    GREAT JOB! 5 STARS!

  8. By Renoir04 on Nov 23, 2010

    I would recommend to do the following:
    1) Make sure they are a licensed contractor, who will be getting the building permit for you.
    2) Ask the contractor if he will be overseeing the work.
    You don't want one of those guys that you only see once, hire a bunch of unkilled labor to do all theactual work, and are never around to make sure the work is being done right.
    3) Get a few more estimates for cost to do the whole job. I prefer getting at least 3. If they refuse to provide a free estimate for the whole job, then don't even consider them.
    4) Whatever you do, do not give the contractor a huge check up front. There are a ton of horror stories out there, where people have gotten ripped off that way. I suggest a stepwise payment based on the progress of work done. The chunk of which isn't paid until the job is passed by the housing inspector.

  9. By mealking on Nov 23, 2010

    A metal roof is not a good idea. Ponding water will leak through the seams even if they are soldered because expansion and contraction will open up the seams. Ponding water will also cause the steel roof to rust prematurely.

    A better option is a rubber membrane roof. Warranties as long as 40 years are available. A reputable roofing contractor will make quick work of the roof job and be around for any problems that may develop … in other words, they will be around to take care of any warranty problems.

    Good luck with your roofing project.

  10. By starlight on Nov 24, 2010

    Definitely a rubber roof requires a great deal let maintenance and will last 15 to 20 years. This will be a true water proof roof system. Paper and tar is old method and will last 7 to 10 years before needing replaced. UV rays effect both but tar faster. Long term Rubber. Short term is moving in 5 years paper and tar.

  11. By arjzv on Nov 24, 2010

    You can do one of two things. Either ask a competitor to come inspect the roof and give you an itemized list of what's wrong with it *just tell them what happened and that you are looking for someone who can show you what's wrong and what needs repaired* or you can contact your insurance company who can set you up with someone who can check it for code. Once you get the documentation showing the lack of work done you can put in writing your complaint and demand it be redone. If they refuse, you have it in writing that you are unhappy with the product and also paperwork showing what damage is done. Take pictures! That way if they DO try to sue you for the money you can have that on your side. They won't get a DIME if you're in the right.

    Do NOT pay until all the above has taken place or they can claim you damaged it etc. you wouldn't have paid if you weren't satisfied etc. and you won't get it fixed by them.

  12. By WPBlog Shop on Nov 24, 2010

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