Turning over a new loaf

Tribe

August 19, 2011

by Darcy Vebber

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Photo pleasantness of indent belligerent bakery

It seems right that some of a initial challahs to be sole in Stone Ground Baking Company’s pleasing new store will be a turn challahs for Rosh Hashanah, a Jewish new year. It is a start of something new alongside a delay of something really old, even ancient.   

Seven years ago, bakers Abby Franke and Paul Sherman non-stop Stone Ground bakery in a small, existent bakery about a mile from a new plcae in Agoura Hills. Their 1960s industrial indent flour indent was set adult in a storage closet, and their vast European rug oven took adult half of a categorical room’s south wall.

A patron during a opposite could feel a feverishness of a ovens and see a hulk brew machines and a worktable where employees finished a array of workman breads and pastries by hand. It was crowded, generally as a bakery’s indiscriminate business grew to supply some-more than 400 stores, synagogues, caterers and, many recently, propagandize districts meddlesome in whole-grain food for their students — not to discuss a high approach for a bakery’s famous challah, that it sells to Trader Joe’s and other chains.

The new plcae is splendid and spacious, a dream of a bakery with hardwood floors and potion walls to keep a feverishness of a ovens divided from a large wooden table, where business can lay and suffer a crater of Illy coffee with their rugelach or hiss tart. The parve products, for that Stone Ground is famous in a Jewish community, are displayed on shelves and in cases, though there is also a new kosher dairy territory and a new fritter chef. There is a coffee lounge, house-made gelato and sorbet, and even a genuine wood-fired territory oven to prepare a pizza mix they sole tender in a aged location.

Franke’s eyes flicker when he talks about a new place, until he gets to a fact that his late, much-missed business partner, Paul Sherman, will not be there — and afterwards his eyes fill with tears. The tie between a defunct Israeli baker and his German partner was powerful. “Paulito” will always be in his thoughts, Franke said, adding that he feels Sherman is examination over a new operation today.

Franke began baking when he was 14, mastered a ability in his local Germany, and afterwards changed to California, where, among other jobs, he managed prolongation during La Brea Bakery. Sherman, also an newcomer baker, from Tel Aviv, had a West Valley kosher bakery when he and Franke met. The direct, effusive German and a reportedly bashful Israeli successfully total Franke’s passion for whole-grain mixture with Sherman’s loyalty to holy prolongation (kashrut) until Sherman’s remarkable genocide during age 53, usually as a business was commencement to explode. In a aged location, a sketch of Sherman presided over a categorical room, and a same print is now during a core of a new store. 

A new partner, Greg Yulish, has a credentials in business rather than in baking, and was a constant patron when he and Franke started deliberating a probable partnership about dual years ago.

They found a new location, where Franke could enhance Stone Ground’s offerings and continue to grow a indiscriminate business. The store uses state-of-the-art equipment, such as radiant new rotating ovens, in and with a made-by-hand tradition. All baked products are still finished in a store, and a same courtesy to mixture that goes into a super-nutritious breads is given to new equipment like gelato and caramel apples.

Franke still grinds his possess flour, though a gray industrial appurtenance has been transposed with a splendid red 1931 indent totally refurbished by a South Carolina manufacturers. Through a glass-enclosed room built for a mill, business can see a wheat being incited into flour, and eventually they will be means to buy creatively bagged (but scrupulously aged) flour for home baking. (Like many food products, flour is best aged, though American companies in an American precipitate have been demure to adopt this European standard.) 

Stone Ground’s kosher acceptance comes from a male who understands baking. Rabbi Ed Feinstein of Valley Beth Shalom is a son of a baker from whom Sherman bought his initial bakery. As a teenager, Feinstein worked during Sherman’s bakery and so, it seemed usually wise that when they indispensable certification, Sherman and Franke went to Feinstein. He authorized a dairy territory in a new bakery, too. Franke says anytime a rabbi feels nostalgic, he is invited to come behind and work. Franke will be behind during a ovens himself in a opening months of a new store, to make certain all is finished a approach it should be.

The turn challah of Rosh Hashanah symbolizes many things and can be a embellishment for a branch of a world, a approach things constantly change though say their hint when what is critical is recorded — a suggestion of a good friend, a traditions of an age-old qualification and a etiquette of an ancient people.

Stone Ground Baking Company, 29105 Canwood Place, Agoura Hills. (818) 597-8774. stonegroundbreads.com.

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